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Buying a flight ticket when travelling in Colombia is no easy feat. First you need to know which airlines fly to such or such destination (it’s a seemingly non-sensical mess of routes), then you might want to check some travel agencies to see if they have some interesting deals, and then you’ll have check availability and prices through the website of each one of the above, compare, decide, and then see if your card even works. Any idea how frustrating it is to go through that whole process only to find out your card isn’t valid here?! Tedious, to say the least…

There are some metasearch for international flights, such as Kayak or Skyscanner but none of them do a good job on helping finding a flight for your trip in Colombia. For example, prices are not in Colombian pesos or they miss offers from some small local airlines or agencies.

So if you need to plan a trip in Colombia, check this new website called Escapar. It’s a free service, and their focus is on the Colombian market. You can check in just one click all the offers and availabilities from airlines and travel agencies operating in Colombia. They have various filters to help you see flights according to prices, departure times, flight duration or arrival time. It’s a great site helping save time and money.

The site is only in Spanish but it should not be too much of a problem even for the worst Spanish speakers among you as entering a destination or a date is not much different from one language to another.

Youtube Video Escapar

This cuts out so much of the hassle of booking a flight here, and should become an essential tool for travellers in Colombia. Of course, your credit card still might not work, but at least the fluidity of the process leading up to that news will be so much smoooother.

Check their video above or their website http://escapar.com.co and check prices with  Escapar when travelling in Colombia.

Before you follow, educate yourself and check what is actually a Paisa.

You might think to yourself that living like a Paisa is easy. The weather, the women, the general friendliness of the people… It all sounds like a breeze to those of us used to inhumane amounts of rain, women in Ugg boots and people that keep their gaze firmly focused on the ground.

Rooftops of Manizales

Don’t be fooled, however.

If you want to live like a true Paisa, there’s a number of important rituals, behaviour patterns and habits you need to be aware of. If you don’t cross off at least most of our list below, we’re sorry, but you’re just not a Paisa.

Be proud.

100% Paisa

Like really proud. Some may say verging on arrogance, but a Paisa would no doubt retort that it’s not arrogance if your self-belief is well-founded. A true Paisa believes that there is no better place on the earth they could have been born. In fact, they’re slightly bewildered as to why you weren’t born in Manizales or Medellín or anywhere else in the region. Be prepared to wax lyrical about the weather, the women (and don’t worry about being sexist, even the women love to talk about the beauty, sultriness and assets of other Paisa women), the industry and of course the public transport. In turn, be sure to complain endlessly about the weather and people of Bogotá, just to drive your point home.

Always remember that this same pride, while at times overwhelming, also helps to maintain cities like Medellín the way they are. There is, in general, a sense of ownership in the city, and so most residents take good care of it.

Believe in independence, sort of.

A true Paisa will happily relay to an eager (or not at all eager) audience that, if the region was independent, it’d be rich, progressive, and just about the best country in the world. However, you can’t truly commit to a belief in this idea, only open peoples eyes to its reality, lest you be considered unfriendly or obnoxious. Paisas are friendly people, they wouldn’t force such ideas upon people!

Eat horrible arepas, but love them.

Any foreigner will know that arepas are a source of intense debate. Some of us hate them, some of us love them. The truth is that the quality of an arepa varies from region to region, but it’s fairly agreed upon that the worst you can get are in Medellín. So, avoid them, right? Wrong. Eat them with every meal. Every. Meal.

Party like it’s 1999, every time.

Partying is important in Medellín and the Paisa region. And thank the Lord, because no-one parties quite like the Paisas. Aguardiente flows like water from the tap while the locals embrace the night with complete abandon. You have little option but to join in, and you should, because wherever you choose to party you’ll be welcomed with open arms and a swift shot.

And if you’re really in the mood to party, be sure to head to Medellín in December. From December the 8th to the first week of January the city is in party mode, with non-stop fun pretty much what’s on everyone’s agenda. Same goes for the Feria de Las Flores in Medellín and the Feria de Manizales.

=> Medellín Christmas Lights

Pick Nacional, Medellín, Itagui or Envigado.

Obviously this counts strictly if you’re from Medellín, otherwise you’ll be going for Once Caldes or someone else. Whoever you choose though, be sure to support them with a passion that burns deep in your soul. Football isn’t just a game in Medellín, it can define who you are and who your friends are. Pick wisely.

Get a ridiculous hair cut.

Mulletastic (image courtesy of expat-chronicles.com)

If you want to go all out Paisa – as in no going back, resident status kind of commitment – you have to get your hair cut. Into a mullet. The more ridiculous the better.

Be friendly.

No more simple “hello”s or short conversations. Your taxi driver, your bar man, your waitress, someone on the street… Just about everyone is willing to stop and talk. Be sure to be extra polite and chatty wherever you go, or else you will be considered rude.

Be too friendly.

So friendly that if someone asks you for directions and you don’t know them, tell them some directions anyway. Right or wrong, you simply couldn’t stand to think that they’d walk away without any directions at all.

Look good.

In university cities such as Manizales things may be more relaxed and, of course, if you’re heading to more hipster venues in the City of Eternal Spring you can stick with your Converse. But, generally speaking, if you’re thinking of wearing flats in Medellín you better think again. High heels, tight jeans, low top, lots of jewellery. If you don’t want to get plastic surgery we recommend a healthy dose of tissue and socks stuffed down your top and your backside.

Work hard, reap rewards.

One thing that will eternally be to the credit of people in this region is that they are exceptionally hard working and industrious. Most the biggest chains in Colombia come from the region, and if the skyscrapers and bright lights of Bogotá look impressive, you have Paisas to thank.

Living like a Bogotano in La Candelaria

As such, it’s difficult to pin down an average day in the life of a Rolo. Many wake up at the most ridiculous hours of the day to pull along a cart that’ll be filled with cardboard. Others wake up at the most ridiculous hours of the day to get into their porsche and drive to Davivienda, where they’ll preside over some of the country’s most important financial decisions. Some will wake up at normal hours, grab a bus and go about their business working in a small coffee shop. Others won’t wake up until their maid forces them to, and they’ll merely plan their next trip to Europe using their father’s money. For these people, Colombia and Bogota are very different beasts.

There are, however, some uniting features of Rolos, and some things are so prevalant that, even if you can’t paint the whole city with the same brush, you can’t fail to notice.

Drink coffee

Coffee may well be more of a Paisa thing, but thanks to the influx of Paisas and the strength of it as a symbol of national identity, most Bogotanos indulge in several cups of tinto daily. Whether this is in Juan Valdez or just from a dude with a flask on the street depends, of course, on who you are.

Learn about Colombian coffee

Have a smartphone

Blackberry, the smartphone of choice for Bogotanos

No Bogotano from the mid to upper echelons would be seen dead without a smartphone. The weapon of choice used to be the Blackberry, but as they got cheaper and began to penetrate other areas of society, the richer kids have preferred to be seen with iPhones and Samsungs. Of course, there is the fact that these phones are infinitely better, so if you can afford them they’re the better option.

Wear a blazer and roll the sleeves up, straighten your hair

This one’s for the laydeeez. If you want to look like a true Bogotana, you gots to get rid of that frizz and get down with the straight kidz. You should also (depending on where you’re planning on being seen, this is mainly for the La T/Parque 93 crowd)) wear a blazer with the sleeves rolled up, knee high black boots and a top you bought in Tennis.

Complain…

Weather? Too hot or too cold. Traffic? Awful. Petro? Don’t even get me started. Buses? Stupid. It’s always best if you start of your complaint with an “uuush”.

“Uuuuush pero que frio!”

…But be fiercely proud

Still, just because you complain, doesn’t mean other people can. You’re intensely proud of Bogota and Colombia and you’ll be damned if a foreigner will come here and complain about the food/weather/prices. It’s a similar deal with food. Rich Bogotanos will wax lyrical about Colombian food’s delights. And then eat in Wok, Crepes, Papa John’s, Sub Way… And basically anywhere that doesn’t serve Colombian food.

Be friendly, but not too friendly

Elsewhere in the country people will gladly stop you for a chat merely based on the fact that you’re foreign. Here you’ll find things distinctly more European. Heads are down, chats can be brisk and generally people seem to have a purpose. That all falls apart, however, come the evening. In Bogota, even the most unlikely friendships can be forged over a cheeky aguardiente. Similarly, once engaged in conversation for whatever reason, Bogotanos are outrageously courteous – going as far as to thank someone merely for coming to their country, or even just being in an elevator with them.

Be focused, but not too focused

Your walk should be brisk and you should try to ignore strangers using a general stand-offish stance. Still, if you spot someone you know you will stop wherever you are to chat to them. Seriously, in the entrance to the Transmilenio or the middle of the whole walkway is just fine. Exchange pleasantries, ask “how are you” in several different ways, shake hands, and then be on your way. You having to be at work should not get in the way of you being nice to your friends, after all.

Have a drink!

Bogotanos love a good drink, so be prepared to see away plenty of Aguardiente, rum and beer when you stay. Nothing gets people swaying to the music like a nice carton of low-price liquor.

Hate reggaeton/vallenato. Love reggaeton/vallenato

To become a true Bogotano (especially a young, wealthy, trendy one) you have to develop a strong love/hate relationship with vallenato and reggaeton. You can’t stand reggaeton, but it’s the only type of music that you’ll play at your house party for the first 2 hours. You can’t stand vallenato, but at the end of the night you’ll grip that box of Nectar so hard as you pour it lovingly into your friend’s cups while belting out every single word of “Oye Bonita”.

Act like a local in Paloquemao Market Bogota

Want to live in Bogota for a few weeks/months, get your own flat at : http://aptscolombia.com

Got any more? Do let us know in the comments.

This, fortunately for us who live here, means there is an abundance of variety here in the city when it comes to food. This, of course, means great international cuisine, but also means you can taste all the distinct, typical cuisine of the country within the capital’s borders.

While each area of Colombia would undoubtedly insist that for the real thing you visit their region (and they would to a large extent be right), that doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in some fantastic cuisine that could be Costeño, Paisa, Santandereano or much more.

So where to go? Here are some tips

Empanadas de Pipian
Cll 73 # 9

While this restaurant might be found all over the city, we recommend a trip to Zona G to grab the pick of the bunch. Crispy, filled with flavour and steeped in tradition. Typical of Popayán  these empanadas are stuffed with peanuts and potatoes, so they stand out from the rest.

El Fogon Llanero
Kr 6 # 26

Delicious ‘gallina’ – photo courtesy of Bogotá Eats and Drinks

Llanero food might not be particularly fancy, but it is particularly delicious. A huge variety of meat cooked to absolute, tender perfection is the name of the game. For those that wish to experiment a little bit, you can also try the chigüiro, which is basically some kind of huge guinea pig type thing. It’s delicious though, so we recommend it.

Chambakú
Cll 63 # 7

For some of the best Costeño food in town get yourself down to Chambakú.  Some of the freshest fish in town meets with great cuts of meat and unique Costeño sauces. Indeed, if you ask many foreigners, they’ll tell you the food from the coast is their favourite in the country, so be sure not to miss out on a taste.

Las Acacias
Cll 94 # 14

Acacias comes directly from Antioquia and specializes in delivering the authentic Paisa experience. What’s that, you ask? Great, friendly service, reasonable prices and more food than you can fit inside your stomach. Be sure to try the bandeja paisa, especially if you’ve got an appetite.

Mercardo
Cll 93 # 13

Mercado

Finally, Mercardo is one of Bogotá’s newest restaurants and it’s making quite a stir. Offering typical Colombian food with a modern twist, it really feels like it might be the start of a revolution in the gastronomy scene here. With award winning chefs, decent service and a nice, relaxed vibe, Mercardo is well worth checking out if you just wish Colombian food was a tad more experimental.

That’s where the Colombian tradition of heading out to a finca becomes less of a luxury and more of a necessity.

So what’s a finca?

A nice finca for the weekend?

A finca is a country house outside of the city where the weather is warm, the music is loud and relaxation is a serious business. Usually found on the outskirts of small villages, they often have pools, stunning views, and enough space to cater quite a large gang.

Relaxing by the pool in tierra caliente (hot land) or tierra fria (cold land) with a beer in hand and salsa on the stereo is one of the finer pleasures available to you in the country, and something you should try to enjoy as much as possible in Colombia.

But without friends with fincas, you’re stuck in Bogotá, right?

It could be worse than being stuck here..

Wrong.

Such is the popularity of fincas that around Bogotá there are several options for renting them, meaning just about anyone can enjoy the pleasure of a weekend trip.

So how do you go about renting a finca?

Renting a finca on the outskirts of Bogotá couldn’t be easier thanks to companies like Finkeros (http://www.finkeros.com/) who provide a simple to use service and boast a whole range of beautiful, comfortable fincas. Some people rent privately too, but that’s dependent on contacts. You’ll also find fincas on the site that are located elsewhere in the country, so if you’re not in Bogotá it’s still worth checking their options.

Where exactly are these fincas?

As mentioned, if you’re in Bogotá you’ll find them in the villages on the city’s outskirts. The most popular places to find fincas are are as follows: La Mesa, Melgar, Tenjo, Guatavita, Girardot, Cajica, Viota, Villeta, Tocaima… Fincas are also popular closer to big cities as Medellín, Cali & Bucaramanga.

How will I get there?

To get to a finca you’ll generally need to take a bus, unless you have a friend with a car. Fortunately these are usually easy enough to get and will run from either Portal Norte, Portal Sur or Terminal. Tickets will generally cost between $10,000 to $20,000, depending on the distance.

Staying in a finca is a uniquely Colombian experience, and one you’ll relish. I know that if I leave Colombia one day, it’s one part of life here I’ll definitely miss.

Banana Skin Flip Flops Blog

Introduce yourself… What’s your name, where are you from and what do you do here in Colombia?

My name is Vicki, I’m British and I’m a freelance writer.

And how long have you been here?

Almost three years. The time has flown.

Why Colombia, and why, specifically, Bogota?

I think Bogotá picked me. I’d worked in newspapers in England for six years and needed some time out. I was travelling when I stopped to ‘rest’ in Bogotá, thinking I’d study Spanish and learn some salsa. A few months later, I realised the city suited me completely.

What did people back home say when you told them you were moving to Colombia?

My dad wrote me a letter saying “No father wants to hear that their daughter has decided to live in Bogotá,” but then he came to visit a few months later and grumbled that the city was ‘just like London’. My friends didn’t know what to think either, but when they visited Bogotá they loved it. My best friend told me it was easy to see why I chose it.

What keeps you here? What is it that makes it a place you’ve stayed
for so long?

I love the attitude of the people in this city; they are so industrious, they believe anything is possible if you’re willing to work for it and find your own way to achieve it. I’ve learned not to be ashamed of having dreams. I’m also a bit of a wanderer, I do look for greener grass, but Bogotá has continued to tame me. It’s probably true that the key to happiness is struggling to achieve goals you’ve set yourself. If so, the city has definitely given me that.

And what would you change? What do you find frustrating?

I wish Bogotanos were less self-critical and less inclined to idealise other nations. Bogotá has a real opportunity to lead the way when it comes to the green cities of the future, for example, when public transport will be more attractive and using your car less so, but it seems hellbent on going the other way. Just because we do something in Europe or the States doesn’t make it right. They should be looking to us.

What piece of advice would you give to a newcomer?

Be patient, learn to live in the moment, be relaxed about plans and be warm and open with the people you meet. Always be polite and respectful, even if you’re frustrated or running late. Bogotanos loathe rudeness. You’ll never entirely lose your desire for punctuality and plans that actually materialise, but life is a lot more fun when it’s unpredictable and you’ll soon realise that hurry and frustration are two burdens you can live without.

What has been your favourite trip inside Colombia?

Vicki in Cartagena!

Difficult. I will always have a soft spot for Cartagena. I spent my 30th birthday there, it’s so beautiful and magical and it appeals to my imagination. I think it’s unmissable. I also loved Caño Cristales, Punta Gallinas and my foray into the Colombian Amazon.

Any final comments?

Only to say that I’m really proud and grateful to call Bogotá my home. So many Colombians and like-minded expats have helped me here, with everything from securing the visa to singing the praises of my blog, that I doubt I’ll ever be able to repay them. But I do believe that one day people, particularly artists, will flock here, just like they did to Paris and New York. And when that happens I’ll be very happy to say: “I always knew there was something special about that place.”

Vicki writes an award-winning blog about life in Latin America. Visit www.bananaskinflipflops.com

=> Check our previous portraits: Kevin Howlett, Colombia Politics, Christian Petersen, Bogotá Graffiti Tours and Eric Tabone, Bogotá Business English

Where elsewhere in the continent you may be forced to spend your night with cockroaches and no direct sunlight, in Colombia there is a wealth of hostels that are clean, well-located and well looked after. What else can you ask for when you’re paying less than $10US a night, eh?

Here’s my pick of the bunch:

Divanga, Taganga

Run by a French lady in love with the local culture, Divanga is the perfect place to stay in Taganga if the all-hours parties and non-stop hedonism don’t really suit you. In fact, it’s the kind of hostel you can fall in love with, and one that highlight’s Taganga’s other charms, such as the beach, the juices and the general tranquility about the place. Of course, in a fishing village on Colombia tranquility is subjective — you’ll still hear a ton of vallenato.

Prices start at COP30,000, and the hostel is found going uphill. Be carefu, they have 2 hostels, obviously choose the one with the swimming pool!

La Brisa Loca, Santa Marta

Aerial view

If it’s partying you’re after, partying what’s your getting. La Brisa Loca is Santa Marta’s most popular hostel and a great place to let your hair down and relax. A short walk from La Plaza de Los Novios and a bus ride from Taganga, it’s well situated so you can enjoy the nearby fantastic restaurants and nightlife. Not that you need to leave, if you don’t want to. With food on offer and bar service, you can just enjoy the party at the hostel itself.

Prices start at $20,000, the hostel’s address is Calle 14 # N3 – 58

Plantation House, Salento

Run by the very friendly Timothy and his family, the Plantation House is the oldest hostel in Salento. Just on the outskirts of Salento’s main plaza, it is ideally located for trips to Cocora Valley and nearby coffee plantations. Actually, the Plantation House also has its own farm where you can take guided tours and learn about the coffee making process (in English) for COP 5,000. The surrounding views are stunning, and it’s the perfect place to enjoy an authentic experience in Colombia’s coffee region.

Prices start at COP 19,000, the hostel is 150m from the main square in Salento.

La Casa de Francois, San Agustín

View of the gardens

Another French owner, another fantastic hostel. La Casa de Francois’ main attraction is the stunning views offered to those who stay there. Smack bang in the middle of the dramatic, undulating landscapes of Huila, this hostel is a tourist experience in itself with its eco-friendly approach including recycled beer bottles to make the walls of the buildings! Nevermind the fact that you can easily explore San Agustín and the local national parks. Unmissable.

Prices from $20,000, contact the hostel here: (57) 314 358 29 30

Rooms start at $17,000, although camping is cheaper.

The Wandering Paisa, Medellín

Karaoke!

The Wandering Paisa is a little outside of Medellín’s bustling and rampant Parque Lleras, but that’s a good thing. Many backpackers restrict themselves to this area only, but a stay at The Wandering Paisa will allow you to see so much more of the city — including the old Zona Rosa, a street full of traditional Paisa character and some unforgettable salsa. This hostel is clean, the staff are great and it’s a great way to spend your time in Medellín. Oh, there’s also salsa, language exchange and kareoke! Boom!

Prices start at $24,000, the hostel’s address is Calle 44A No. 68A 76

Get your Own Flat when Travelling to Bogotá

Times, however, are changing, and recently there has been a huge shift towards renting short-term apartments when on vacation. This is no different in Colombia, where various expats and locals are clocking onto this trend and starting up their own companies looking to cater to foreigners that are visiting Colombia but are trying to avoid the costs and restrictions of hotels. This is especially true when it comes to staying in the major cities of Colombia: Bogota, Medellin and Cartagena.

Indeed, it is the freedom of an apartment that often appeals to many holiday-goers: your own kitchen to cook cheaply, the ability to bring back guests should you desire and no set breakfast times. Privacy is one of the biggest advantages of staying in an apartment. Guests tend to appreciate that the space feels more like their own and is often much bigger. Add on the fact that the price is frequently substantially lower and you get a convincing case for apartment-based holidays.

So just what is the upside of a hotel?  The main advantage of hotels are their convenience and ease of use, you don’t have to worry and depending on the price you pay you know more or less what to expect. Another advantage is safety, hotels ensure a high level of security when you stay with them and if the unfortunate should happen there are often policies in place to ensure you are looked after. This is not even to mention the rogue apartment owners that could take advantage of unsuspecting tourists, letting them down and often taking their money without providing the conditions they promised. The established pages of TripAdvisor haven’t extended to apartments in a sufficient way just yet, so getting an apartment can often be a risky business.

Nice park near the Alhambra neighbourhood in Bogotá

But safety concerns about apartments are dissolving as the industry improves. Sites like Air BnB offer secured transactions and an insurance policy for the travellers and the apartment owner. In Bogota, most established companies like Apartamentos Alhambra have a thorough security systems in place for the travellers or the business executive. All apartments come with a safety box, a doorman and 24/7 security system; they also buck the trend and have a strong presence on TripAdvisor. Certainly, standards are rising as the popularity of apartment stays increases. In Colombia, since it’s a new market, it is often advisable to seek firm recommendations when seeking apartments or using apartment rental companies.

Hotels in certain areas of Colombia are also sub-standard, owing to the lack of regulatory practices in the country. Though most hotels are decent to excellent, most suffer from false advertising and rate themselves as 4 or 5 star when a 3 star would be more appropriate. This leads to disappointment.

Colombia, moreover, is a country with many areas that are uniquely suited to apartment renting. Vacation Rental in Bogotá is a great option for example. With its bustling streets and unique atmosphere, Bogota is a city that lends itself very much to the independence an apartment can lend you. Not to mention the fact that hotels are often situated in very touristy areas (Zona T, Parque 93, La Candelaria), and so those wishing to get a more authentic taste of the city may want to consider an apartment rental in Chapinero, Santa Barbara, Chicó, Alhambra, Puentelargo and Batán. These areas are ideal not just because they’re pleasant, but because they have great transport links and are located near important business and leisure districts.

Renting apartments in Medellín is a great option since you can stay in some fantastic apartments for reasonable prices in the most exclusive parts of the city. El Poblado is a particular favourite for foreigners thanks to the beautiful surroundings and the quality of the apartments available.

Feel like Cooking while in Bogotá?

On the other hand, a city like Cartagena might be more suited to hotel-goers. Hotels and apartments in the city are similar prices, and the hotels often come with excellent service, spas, restaurants and swimming pools – not to mention fantastic views. Hotels also offer you the best locations, since most are found within the Old City and therefore closer to the major tourist attractions. Apartments, while predictably nice, just don’t offer the same kind of luxury service that’s suited to a tourism destination such as Cartagena and are therefore to be eschewed in favour of one of the city’s many beautiful hotels.

Overall, the debate between apartments and hotels in Colombia depends on preference. While some prefer the ease and comfort of a hotel, the freedom and value of an apartment often gives the tourist a richer and more genuine experience of the city they are exploring. Either way, few that visit will disagree that wherever you stay, Colombia is a country you should travel to soon.

Article written with the help of our friends at Apartamentos Alhambra, Bogotá 

Still, that doesn’t mean there aren’t some great films that have come out of the country, even if they’re not always easy to find in your local cinema in Bogotá. Sure, many of these do involve the above elements but to an extent it’s understandable; Colombia may be changing but its history is undoubtedly not laden with Hollywood-friendly stories and characters. What generally differentiates the good, the bad and the ugly is in how these elements are depicted, and how the effects upon the country itself are shown.

Here are my picks of some of the best of Colombian cinema, before coming to town be sure to try and watch at least a few to get an understanding of the country, even if only a small introduction. For those of us that already live here, it’s a great way to learn a little more, find out about a new region or just remind yourself about some of Colombia’s sadder or more inspiring stories.

La virgen de los sicarios (Our Lady of the Assassins)

Adapted from the novel of the same title by Fernando Vallejo, Our Lady of the Assassins is a bleak story of hopeless love, murder and criminality. A gay Colombian author in his fifties returns to Medellín after a long absence to find the city is mired in violence and completely different to how he remembered it. While the film may not be a fair representation of Medellín today, it still captures the fear and confusion of a certain page in the city’s history.

La Estrategia del Caracol

The Strategy of the Snail

A slow-moving but charming piece of cinema inspired by a true story that appeared in the daily paper, The Strategy of the Snail will appeal to expats already familiar with the country’s rather unique blend of overcomplicated beauracracy, and the ease with which you can avoid it unless it suits someone. It’s humourous, true to life and a great rumination on Colombian society.

Los Colores de la Montaña

The Colours of the Mountain

An assured, slow-paced film that depicts how Colombia’s warring factions affect the lives of those living in the countryside. By focusing mainly on the lives of a group of children, the film shows that those most deeply affected are often without real political convictions; those that merely want to live their lives in comfort.

The Two Escobars

Critically acclaimed, The Two Escobars focuses on the lives of two of Colombia’s most infamous celebrities: Andrés Escobar and Pablo Escobar. Unrelated by birth, their stories nonetheless intertwine through a love of football (Andrés represented the country at the World Cup in 1994) and, unfortunately, some rather more nefarious ways. The film follows the two men’s stories up until the tragic end.

La Sirga

Low-key but far reaching, The Towrope ruminates upon the effect of violent conflict in impoverished rural communities. Perhaps not one for mainstream audiences, it shows the difficulty of life for some in Colombia with an unerring vagueness, where the violence is barely shown, barely contextualised but always somehow present. Difficult, challenging but, if you can make it to the end, hugely rewarding.

Did we miss some good Colombian films? Comment below and share with us!

Diving near San Andres, Colombia

For some, submerging yourself underwater for inhuman lengths of time is something of a nightmare. For others, it’s a journey into a whole new world; one of brilliant colours, powerful predators and natural wonder.

If you fall into the second category of people (or if you’re just intruiged by the idea of diving), then travelling to Colombia will offer a world of opportunity that, best of all, has barely been discovered by the underwater roaming clan.

There are several major destinations for diving in Colombia, in this post I’ll take a look at some of them and break them down.

Santa Marta & Taganga

Diving in Taganga

While Cartagena’s diving opportunities are considered by many to be overrated, nearby Taganga and Santa Marta are quickly gaining a reputation for being a great spot thanks to the low prices, excellent beginner courses and great selection of underwater wildlife.

In the area you’ll find batfish, squid and turtles among other tropical fish and some huge coral formations.

This is a great area for beginners since costs are so low that, if you don’t take to diving, it’s not much of a commitment. Moreover, the dives themselves are all relatively easy but very rewarding.

San Andres & Providencia

Lion Fish near San Andres

This, dear friends, is the Caribbean. Locals are relaxed, rum is available in abundance, the beaches are perfect and, of course, the diving opportunities are superb.

Both San Andres and Providencia offer deliciously warm waters all year round, as well as great visibility and an abundance of diverse sealife. Particularly of note in these areas are the walls, reefs, caves and sea wrecks that line the ocean floors, although various tropical fish also roam.

The main spots in San Andres are the Blue Wall which is a wall dive on the island’s east coast; The Pyramids, which are found in the north and great for beginners looking to see fish (French grunts and more abound); and Nirvana, which is a huge reef dive that advanced divers will love.

In Providencia, be sure to check out Turtle Rock (the island’s main attraction), a 35-foot-wide rock that starts around 75 feet; Spiral, often considered the best place to find fish in Providencia; and Nick’s Place, where you’ll find Creole wrassle, parrotfish, eels and black grouper.

The best thing about these islands is that, after the diving, you’ve got the whole place to explore. A true tropical paradise.

Pacific Coast and Gorgona Island

Colombia’s Pacific Coast is one of its most underexplored regions. It boasts a mind-blowing amount of biodiversity and diving opportunities in the area are incredibly rich – 70% of the marine species of the Tropical Eastern Pacific Ocean can be found in these waters.

One of the most amazing sights in Colombia is the humpback whale emerging from the pacific waters near Gorgona Island (only on show between July and October). Although this is only viewed by boat, a trip to the former-prison island offers great diving opportunities, too.

The area boasts seawolves, sharks, hammerheads (occasionally) and much more, as well as stunning, wild beaches when you’re not diving.

Other great areas for diving on Colombia’s Pacific Coast include Bahía Solano and El Valle, where you’ll find giant rays, snappers and much more.

Malpelo (Off the Pacific Coast)

This one is strictly for experts only!

Malpelo is a kind of crag of rock that’s found at the extreme west of Colombia. It juts out from the ocean surrounded by 11 smaller crags, intimidating in its stature but nothing compared to what lurks beneath the ocean’s surface.

Schools of up to 300 hammerhead sharks skull around the rocks, as well as huge groups of tropical fish and the extremely rare smalltooth sand tiger. Deep-sea species also inhabit the area, including the Sunray Shark – otherwise known as ‘The Monster’.  This is one of the best opportunities in the world to get close to sharks living in the wild, and for that diving enthusiasts from all over the world visit.

Malpelo is one of the most unique and overwhelming diving experiences on earth and for those that dedicate themselves to underwater exploration, it’s an absolute must.

The only down side to diving Malpelo is the difficulty getting there. The cost alone can put many off, with prices running beyong $3000US for an 8 day excursion. The island is only reachable by boat, and is a 378km journey from Colombia’s Pacific Coast. Indeed, most journeys don’t take place from Colombia, but rather start from Panama or Costa Rica.

If you do go from Colombia, the starting point will be Buenaventura.